My last month abroad was bittersweet. After my classes finished up, I remember hugging my Spanish girlfriends goodbye in tears, pleading with them to WhatsApp me. However, before I left Spain for good, I made one last trip to a destination that has been on my wishlist for years: Italy. As a history major, Italy has an allure I still can’t brush away, and I can say with certainty that my trip in May did nothing but exaggerate my feelings for the country. A few of my friends and I spent a week in between Bari, Naples, and Rome, and obviously, we were barely able to scratch the surface. While Rome stole my heart away with the intricate sculptures and landmarks such as the Trevi Fountain, the layered city of Naples was my favorite.

On the night we arrived there, my friends decided they wanted to take a train to the Amalfi coast the next day to spend its entirety on the beach. After a brief discussion, I decided to stay; I had spent most of my spare time that spring laying half naked on the Spanish beach in Alicante, and I was ready to sign up for a Naples history lesson. Thus, at 11:30 p.m. that night, I made the best decision ever. I signed up for a five-hour walking tour. It was the type that was so insanely cheap, that I almost counted on it being a scam of some sort. Nonetheless, I was too late in signing up for most of the well-known ones on TripAdvisor, and I figured something was better than nothing at all. Thus, at 8:00 a.m. the following morning, I was sitting at the Neptune fountain alongside three other tourists, anxiously waiting for the guide who would make or break this day. Twenty minutes later, Fluvio waltzed up with a big tour guide sign and an even bigger grin. Kind and funny, he spent the first few minutes getting to know us before launching into his spiel. Fluvio said, and I quote, “First I am Napoli, then I am Italian,” and that sums up his tour perfectly.

Over the course of the next five hours, we followed Fluvio around as he passionately taught us about his home, his language, and his culture. First, we walked alongside the Bay of Naples and gazed at the Island of Capri and Mount Vesuvius. Then, we wandered the historic neighborhoods of Naples and visited Castel Nuovo, which was the Royal Palace of the 13th century, and its enchanting gardens. We saw the massive Teatro de San Carlo and the Galleria Umberto, and the many impressive cathedrals, such as Gesù Nuovo and the monastery of Santa Chiara. While Fluvio walked us through the city’s beautiful historic landmarks and filled our heads with the captivating stories of early Napolis, he would stop to pull us into his favorite cafes and shops, giving us the insider scoop on everything from coffee to nativity figures. In the last leg of the tour, we had the opportunity to creep down into the Roman Ruins and he eloquently described the layered city of Naples and the Greeks and Romans who took turns dwelling in it. A truly impressive tour guide, Fluvio’s tour laid the foundation of my knowledge of Naples and secured the rest of my itinerary for my time there. In the days after, I went to every museum and landmark he recommended and tried all of his favorite pastries along the way. To Fluvio: Thank you for showing me the beauty of your home and for taking your time out to teach others. Also, you should charge more.